On the Equator

"On the Equator" by Harry de Windt is a detailed account of his travels and observations in the region of Sarawak, Borneo, during the late 19th century. The narrative begins with de Windt's departure from London in April 1880, accompanied by a college friend, as they journey through France to Marseilles and then by sea to Singapore. From there, they travel to Kuching, the capital of Sarawak, aboard the Sarawak Government gunboat, the Aline. De Windt provides a vivid description of Kuching, highlighting its harmonious blend of cultures, the bustling Chinese Bazaar, and the presence of a small but vibrant European community. He also notes the challenges posed by the tropical climate and local wildlife, including the ubiquitous rats and mosquitoes. The book delves into the history of Sarawak, focusing on the pivotal role played by Sir James Brooke, who became the Raja of Sarawak in 1841. Brooke's efforts to establish order and governance in a region plagued by piracy and internal strife are recounted, including his dealings with local rulers and the eventual cession of Sarawak to him by the Sultan of Brunei. De Windt also describes the Chinese insurrection of 1857, a significant event that tested the resilience of Brooke's administration but ultimately reinforced the stability of his rule. De Windt's narrative is not just a travelogue but also an exploration of the socio-political landscape of Sarawak during this period. He provides insights into the governance structure, the economic activities, and the cultural dynamics of the region. The book concludes with de Windt's reflections on the progress made in Sarawak under Brooke's regime and the enduring legacy of his governance.